by intern, Natalie Wood
Having attended the textiles trade fair, Premiere Vision last week there was a definite richness to both the forecasted palette and to the fabrics on show for A/W 13/14.
The three trend stories this season were: Adventure, Feeling and Time
Adventure takes inspiration from the city; this exploration of urban landscapes sees active wear and fashion combined. The story has a utilitarian message, with fabrics being coated and reversible. Textiles are both techno and traditional, for example, dark brushed wools under brightly coloured netting.
Skylines and landscapes are a strong print story; both photographic and abstract. Photographic collages were featured too. City grids and mapping offered pattern inspiration, with repeating squares and rectangles. Pattern also looked to the natural world for inspiration. Mineral graphics were a strong theme, even being overprinted onto matte sequins.
Mottled greens and mustard yellows give a distinctly alpine feel, with vintage travel inspired graphics and prints. More formal weighty tweeds and herringbones also help to give the story a retro-sporty edge.
Feeling is a seductive and romantic story with a dark edge. Blurred graphics and dark base colours create an impact against a softer palette. Black accents to patterns were key; with floral prints appearing abstract and on darker backgrounds. Faded and worn looking prints created a sense of age to fabrics; lace was also used to the same effect.
Metallic sheens could be found on fluid, semi-sheer jerseys, copper being a particularly key colour. ‘Rustling’ was used as a key word; layering and crepe fabrics created noise with movement. Velvets and pile fabrics were both plain and with a burnt-out effect. The inclusion of these fabrics gave a sense of luxury to the story. Denims were dark but with dyed coloured accents; streaks of purple, green and blue on an indigo jean or a dark denim jean with a contrasting red reverse, seen on the cuff. Knits were soft and at times brushed, giving the fabric an airy and light appearance despite often being deceptively weighty.
Time is opulent and bold. Taking inspiration from history, this story combines the centuries to create a rich, regal theme. Darkened ores and blacks are the main components of this colour palette. With many fabrics being self-coloured, the story has a monochromatic feel.
Denims were inky black – many coated or with a lacquer effect. Some jacquards were also coated in a similar way. Slashes, blistering and quilting offered texture to these solid dark coloured textiles. Prints had a definite baroque feel, taking inspiration from Coats of Arms or other noble insignia. Patterns were reminiscent of shields, almost like chain mail. Small self-coloured chateau geometries provided texture. Dark coloured furs were highlighted with brighter colours such as green, russet and purple,
Many knits were overprinted or had metallic strands woven in, copper-green or gold. Metallic accents were particularly prominent within the story, being used on patterns, woven within textiles or embossed on top.
Mist (pantone 14-4206 TPX), turkish delight (15-1821 TPX), bluebell (14-4112 TPX), butter (12-0722 TPX), lavender (16-3931 TPX), papaya (16-1640 TPX) and petrol (18-4432 TPX).
Aloe vera (17-5122 TPX), pale lilac (14-3904 TPX), ochre (14-0846 TPX), pansy (18-3224 TPX), scarlettina (18-1760 TPX), orangina (16-1343 TPX), copper brown (18-1242 TPX) and super hero blue (18-4148 TPX).
Teal (19-4826 TPX), dark forest (19-5320 TPX), mystic violet (19-3730 TPX), dark oxblood (19-1650 TPX), and lyrical wood (19-0405 TPX).
For more colour inspiration, just click here.