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Archive for the ‘London Fashion Week’ Category

Teatum Jones, AW16 at London Fashion Week

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2016

The Teatum Jones AW’16 collection shown on Saturday night was, in my eyes, their best yet. As recent winners of the International Woolmark Prize it’s clear that Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones have hit their creative stride in spectacular style, garnering the recognition that this label has long deserved. After seeing the show I can absolutely see why the Woolmark judges chose Teatum Jones as their winners. This design duo have always been very textiles innovation focussed, specifically developing most of the fabrics for each collection. With the inspiration for this collection coming from the Foxford Woollen Mill, they delivered stunning pattern and texture through their attention to textile detail which perfectly blended historical reference points with Teatum Jones’ view of modern elegance.

Teatum Jones, AW16 collection at London Fashion Week, Blink London, fashion blog, catwalk show review

Teatum Jones, AW16 collection at London Fashion Week, Blink London, fashion blog, catwalk show review

Teatum Jones, AW16 collection at London Fashion Week, Blink London, fashion blog, catwalk show review

Teatum Jones, AW16 collection at London Fashion Week, Blink London, fashion blog, catwalk show review

I caught up with Catherine Teatum after the show to gain some more insight in to the collection.

Blink: Is this AW16 collection an extension from your Woolmark prize collection, or was the prize collection an extraction from your plans already underway for AW16?

Catherine: The human story is what comes first so there wasn’t an order of creativity as such. That poignant human story then wholly influences patterns we looked at and fabric textures we want to create. So both IWP and mainline FW16 evolved at the same pace and because we have discovered new and innovative ways to use merino wool in our collections, it naturally spread across both. This is something that we will continue to do. We’ve unlocked the magic in this simple and natural fibre and we are excited to pursue those investigations.

Blink: The reference points for this collection feel very much about your Irish family background. How did Rob’s influence dovetail in to the story?

Catherine: The story was based on a woman Agnes Moirrogh Bernard whose life’s ambition was to use wool as a powerful symbol of hope for those less fortunate. She just so happened to be based in Ireland very near to my family home! Both Rob and I travel to the mills together and the process of creation is experienced together.

There a very beautiful thing between two creative people who know what the other is thinking and doesn’t question it – trust.

Blink: How did you come across the story of Agnes and the Foxford mill?

Catherine: My dad recommended that we go to visit it. Initially he took me there on a day out together last August 2015 and I was instantly captured by Agnes’s story. I went back a month later and spoke to the crafts people at the mill and then Rob and I travelled there several times throughout the development process. 

Blink: The colour palette felt far richer and brighter than I might have expected from the historical woollen reference point. What was your inspiration?

Catherine: Teatum Jones creates bold, exquisite fabrics that are married with modern, relevant shapes. We feel that AW16 was probably our most competent example of that to date. The inspiration to create these fabrics was inspired by the natural and unstoppable spirit of the Irish people in the story. Coupled with the incredible diversity in landscape textures that you find in Ireland.

Blink: The colourful sand catwalk pathway was beautiful. What was your inspiration behind that?

Catherine: We felt the sand was a poignant way to tell our AW16 story. Sand never stands still, it constantly evolves and each time the models walked and created a new impression in the sand, that seemed to perfectly reflect the journey of Agnes and the Irish people of Foxford that she worked so hard to provide a future for.

Blink: How do you think winning the Woolmark prize impact on Teatum Jones?

Catherine: It’s given us the opportunity to really pursue our textile innovation and development. To really discover what’s the next level of possibilities of wool. It’s also given us the opportunity to be physically present in store for every single one of our retail partners’ launches.

Blink: The knitwear in this collection seemed to play a stronger part than previous seasons. Was that a conscious intention?

Catherine: The rural Irish women would hand knit everything and it’s a skill that was passed down through generations. We wanted however, to create a collection of knitwear that hit every single wardrobe stoppable desire that our women needs and only use the finest merino yarn to create a these knitwear pieces.

Here’s some of my highlights from the show so that you can get a closer look at some of the stunning detailing.

For more from London Fashion Week, just look here. For more interviews then look here.

meet Hesper Fox, a new luxe loungewear brand

Wednesday, November 4th, 2015
Kristi Edwards, founder of Hesper Fox, nightwear, London Fashion Week, new British brand, silk, luxury fashion, fashion blog, Blink Lonodn

Kristi Edwards, founder of Hesper Fox

During London Fashion Week, aside from all of the ‘on schedule’ and official car park based events, there are lots of great additional shows, presentations and opportunities to discover new, innovative and exciting things. One such event was a small gathering at the Groucho. We discovered two new labels, Hockin and Hesper Fox. Both beautifully detailed and highly considered womenswear labels- but from very different angles, aesthetics and experience.

We’re starting with Hesper Fox. This is a new, London-based luxury lounge and sleepwear range which will launch this December. Each piece in the nine-piece debut collection effortlessly mixes and matches so you can create your own perfect combination. Personally, although the concept is about something more intimate, I think the kimono style robe would make perfect Summer daywear too…

The softly tailored collection is all 100% silk charmeuse, and is exquisitely detailed with french seams and mother of pearl buttons.

Hesper Fox, nightwear, London Fashion Week, new British brand, silk, luxury fashion, fashion blog, Blink London

Hesper Fox

Hesper Fox, nightwear, London Fashion Week, new British brand, silk, luxury fashion, fashion blog, Blink London

Hesper Fox

We met Kristi, Hesper Fox’s founder at the LFW event and she very kindly agreed to a quick interview.

Blink: What lead you to launch a luxury nightwear collection?

Hesper Fox: I decided to launch Hesper Fox following a light bulb moment one Christmas morning, amongst the champagne and early-start mince pies. My husband had given me a pair of silk PJs but commented that he had searched high and low to find me something that I (and not just he) would love; something bold and luxurious that sat away from the very lingerie-driven styles and the cutesy-pie printed sets that don’t feel so cutesy-pie post-teen.

Blink: What is it about silk that made you choose it as your main material?

Hesper Fox: The way is falls, how flattering it is, how beautiful it is to wear and how loudly it speaks of luxury.

Blink: Who is your style icon?

Hesper Fox: I am a big fan of strong, bold women who walk their own line. I don’t have just one as I have to confess my own style borders on schizophrenic – my head always says grown-up, minimal black, lots of denim and “keep it simple” (and that’s where I generally end up) but my heart LOVES a clash of print and colour. There are so many women I admire; Lauren Hutton’s beautiful pared-back 70s style, Katharine Hepburn’s chisel-featured androgynous look, anything Charlotte Rampling did or wore in front of a camera in the late 60s and 70 was perfect, Julianne Moore’s red carpet looks are pretty tough to beat and Cate Blanchett always strikes the most perfect balance between interesting and elegant.

Blink: Who do you see as you ideal client when you’re designing the collection?

Hesper Fox: A woman with an eye to quality, who likes a modern take on classic shapes and wants her at-home look to more closely echo what she shows the outside world – she doesn’t think that chic should stop just because the front door is closed.

Blink: What was your main aim when creating this collection?

Hesper Fox: I wanted to create a sleep and loungewear range that was most definitely luxurious, felt beautiful to wear and was comfortable to lounge and sleep in but also, that would work extra hard. I have designed the range using non-sleepy prints and bold, fearless colourways and have cut the shapes such that Hesper Fox will also hold some crossover appeal. A number of the pieces will comfortably undertake double-duty when paired with other ready-to-wear wardrobe staples, away from the comfort of home. For example, the Astrid shorts make an excellent, luxe beach cover up, the Eos trousers are lovely with barely-there tops for suppers out (but look just as good with a cashmere sweater), the Endymion robe is a perfect travelling companion – being silk, it rolls into nothing – and the Nyx camisole is great with a pair of denim shorts and some espadrilles for long, lazy lunches or as a layering piece with sharp tailoring for cocktails.

Blink: Where does the brand name come from?

Hesper Fox: Hesper is a girl’s name that I have always loved. It means ‘the night star’ or the planet Venus at night, derived from Greek mythology where the Hesperides was the collective name of the nymphs of the evening and golden light of sunset. I wanted to create a persona so I had to give Hesper a last name. I chose Fox because they’re nocturnal, very social, beautiful, fleet-of-foot and super-smart.

Blink: Is the label true to your initial vision or has it evolved and changed at all?

Hesper Fox: I had a pretty clear vision of how I wanted the brand to look and feel as I set out to create something that was a different to what was already on offer. I also knew I wanted Hesper Fox to have a certain tone of voice – I wanted it to be a grown-up and stylish but not to take itself too seriously – classic with a twist

Blink: What can we expect in the future from Hesper Fox?

Hesper Fox:  I am currently working on the prints and colourways for the next collection for AW16 and will work on introducing new styles next year also.

For more interviews, just take a look here.

 

Fashion Trend Analysis, SS’16: shoulder focus

Tuesday, October 27th, 2015

Another summary from the Spring Summer 2016 catwalk shows. Hope you liked our previous  post looking at all of the gorgeous frills and ruffles. This time we look at silhouette and the new focus area is the shoulder line. This was a shape change adopted by a hugely diverse selection of designers across all four fashion capitals. That is a perfect indication that this will be something that will have a major impact on all levels of fashion, even though it is a pretty directional shape change.

SS'16 Trend Analysis- shoulder focus by Blink London, Creative Consultancy, fashion trends, fashion forecasting, fashion blog, Lucy Williams

SS’16 Trend Analysis- Shoulder Focus by Blink London

It’s all about the sloped, curvaceous, dropped shoulder which takes the eye almost from neckline to elbow in one sweeping line. This immediately made me think of a very early Victorian silhouette, and I think this image swiped from Pinterest indicates it really beautifully.

The Victorian soft shoulder silhouette, image from Pinterest with thanks, fashion inspiration, vintage fashion, fashion trends, fashion blog, Blink London

The Victorian soft shoulder silhouette, image from Pinterest with thanks

It’s lovely to see fashion delving further back in history for inspiration as we’ve recently been pretty preoccupied with eras that I have actually lived through (depressing!), and I do love a good bit of fashion history.

We’ll be dropping a couple more of these summaries soon, giving you an insight in to the work we do for our international fashion industry clients. The SS’16 show images have been swiped from Vogue, with huge thanks.

Mary Benson, SS’16 collection from LFW

Thursday, October 15th, 2015
Mary Benson SS'16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue, London Fashion Week, new British designer, fashion blog, Blink London

Mary Benson SS’16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue

Mary Benson is another fabulous new name that we spotted at London Fashion Week, and we managed to catch up with the team in person at the British Fashion Council’s London Show Rooms in Paris during Paris Fashion Week. It’s an intriguing womenswear collection founded by Mary, and now created by her and new her design partner, Morten Ussing.

Mary Benson SS'16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue, London Fashion Week, new British designer, fashion blog, Blink London

Mary Benson SS’16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue.

Mary Benson SS'16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue, London Fashion Week, new British designer, fashion blog, Blink London

Mary Benson SS’16 collection, image with thanks to Vogue

I met the pair in their showroom space, drawn in by the stunningly dramatic white dress set next to a rail full of their collection. On my first view of the dress I was thinking romance, girlish abandon, vintage elegance with an 80’s twist. Then I met Mary and Morten and they set me straight…

Mary Benson SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms, Paris Fashion Week., British Fashion Counvcil, Blink London, Fashion blog

Mary Benson SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms, Paris Fashion Week.

The pair explained that this collection is a reflection each experiencing some pretty tough heartbreak and all of the mixed up feelings that accompany it. Fresh from a break up myself I was really very much in the mood to appreciate where this innovative design duo were coming from. Some pieces in the collection are just detailed with hearts and flowers, but these swiftly become tear-filled eyes, which in turn are joined by lines of handwriting. The scrawled words start out looking sweetly beseeching but quickly loose control and end up rather crazed and a bit sweary. This is literally wearing your heart on your sleeve, along with your private journal shared right across your back.

It is utterly modern, clever, and artistic in a kinda Tracey Emin way. The collection manages to express a certain ownership of those feelings and in turn reveals a level of empowerment. The silhouettes have a kind of Biba-esque simplicity about them, allowing the surface pattern to sing out, whilst abstractly dipping in and out across areas of volume.

This is a label you are sure to hear more of. This may be their first taste of being part of the London Fashion Week establishment (last year Benson showed as part of Fashion East), but they are already well supported. For this collection they collaborated with Stephen Jones for the hats (how gorgeous is that red heart!), and with Tatty Devine on this utterly genius tear-adorned eyewear, modelled by Mary herself.

Mary Benson in the eyewear created in collaboration with Tatty Devine, SS'16

Mary Benson in the eyewear created in collaboration with Tatty Devine, SS’16

Thanks so much to Mary and Morten for the time that they gave me in Paris. I hope that it was a huge success. Oh and can I borrow that really sweary number to hang out outside my exes place this weekend please?

For more of our London Fashion Week coverage, just look here.

Words by Lucy Williams.

Images by Lucy Williams, unless otherwise stated.

Molly Goddard, SS16

Tuesday, October 13th, 2015

I hope you enjoyed my post about meeting Piers Atkinson in Paris. Here’s another missive from our PFW trip, this time featuring Molly Goddard and her SS’16 collection. To help set the scene, here’s a video from the British Fashion Council of Goddard’s rather unusual LFW show…

Yup, that is a fashion version of a sandwich factory. I initially felt a bit kinda confused by this, not understanding the full story behind the collection. Without even delving in to show notes or esoteric motivations, the simple fact is that this was the perfect atmosphere for Goddard to show her style, and this collection in particular. There is a certain vintage, naive, pastoral and crafty feel around the collection, mostly from the hand smocked detailing and the proportions, so why shouldn’t this person be making something as simple and recognisable, comforting and honest as a sandwich?

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London

Molly Goddard SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London

Molly Goddard herself, with her SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris

The collection feels both antiquely, milk-maidish and at the same time, for the same reasons of proportion and detailing but taking in to account colour and materials too, kinda subversive as well. There is sweetness on first sight, but upon second look there is a toughness, a grit, a touch of punky anti-joie de vivre. When looking closely at some of the pieces from this collection I was drawn in by the intense, handworked precision in some of the styles. The beautiful smocking has been hand created using tradition and age-old techniques. This is combined with the textural layers, tiers and ruffles, bell sleeves and pattern mixtures to create a really vibrant, exciting feel.

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London

Molly Goddard SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London

Molly Goddard SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London

Molly Goddard SS’16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris

We asked Molly if she had a favourite from the collection. A bit of a ‘Sophie’s Choice’ situation I’m sure, but she pointed out the plaid dress, which is intensley smocked which gives the pattern a totally different appearance on the bodice and upper arms, and the plaid pattern also feeling rather schoolish and country-girl whilst also being a strong Punk pattern reference. I love, love love both the literal layers as well as the subtler layers of reference Goddard has captured on these wonderful pieces.

Molly Goddard SS'16 collection at the London Show Rooms in Paris, British Fashion Council, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, British fashion designer, Blink London, catwalk show, Vogue

Molly Goddard SS’16 collection. Image with thanks to Vogue.com

Thanks to Molly, for the time that she gave us in Paris at the London Show Rooms event. I hope it was a huge success. For more of our London Fashion Week coverage, just look here.

 

Words by Lucy Williams.

Images by Lucy Williams, unless otherwise stated.

“Blink” Inspiration: SS’16 Trend Analysis, Frills

Tuesday, October 6th, 2015

This is the first in a series of posts where we share with you our insights into some of the biggest prevailing trends from the SS’16 shows. We have looked closely at every show from New York, London, Milan and now Paris (still going with Chanel happening today at the Grand Palais). As a fashion forecaster you look for repetitive themes in colour, mood, reference points, fabrications, colour, pattern, atmosphere, silhouette, detailing. From that we try to divine what we can anticipate as being the strongest looks to expect to be adopted by the fashion industry as a whole, from top to bottom. Here is a unique insight in to what we have identified, showing you information that would usually be reserved for our fashion industry clients. You lucky fashionista you!

We are starting with a spotlight on frills and ruffles. Mostly these are light, full of movement, feminine and delicate, feeling exuberant and airy, as seen at Dries, Erdem and Gucci. In other looks we see this form taking a more sculptural feel where the frills and ruffles have been shaped from more structured, firm materials creating a strong and striking silhouette, still feminine but with a bolder, more determined attitude, like we have seen from Delpozo or Lanvin.

SS'16 Trend Analysis- Frills by Blink London, Creative Consultancy, fashion trends, fashion forecasting, fashion blog, Lucy Williams

SS’16 Trend Analysis- Frills by Blink London, Creative Consultancy

Images with huge thanks to the show coverage on Vogue. For more on fashion inspiration, just look here.

“Blink” Travels: Paris Fashion Week

Friday, October 2nd, 2015

Sorry for the lack of posts yesterday and today but we’ve been rather distracted by our second favourite city, Paris. You will have seen lots on the Blink London Instagram feed yesterday and today showing you some insights from our trip. If you didn’t spot us, then you’re missing out and follow us RIGHT NOW!

Place de la Bastille, Paris, during Paris Fashion Week, October'15

Place de la Bastille, Paris, during Paris Fashion Week, October’15

It was more like Spring in Paris than Autumn, with super blue skies and bright sunshine shining on the fashion crowd as they made their final trip of ‘Fashion Month’, descending on the stunning City of Light. We joined in and our first port of call was the British Fashion Council’s London Show Rooms, of course. We are all about supporting the British Fashion Industry first and foremost.

The British Fashion Council's London Show Rooms at Paris Fashion Week, October'15

The British Fashion Council’s London Show Rooms at Paris Fashion Week, October’15

We promise to share all of the wonderfully inspirational stuff we saw and the brilliantly creative people that we met throughout next week, so watch out! Oh, and we mustn’t forget to thank Eurostar for a wonderfully quick and easy journey too.

“Blink” Streetstyle: London Fashion Week

Wednesday, September 30th, 2015
LFW Sept'15 streetstyle, by Blink London

LFW Sept’15 streetstyle, by Blink London

LFW Sept'15 streetstyle, by Blink London

LFW Sept’15 streetstyle, by Blink London

For more great streetstyle, just look here.

“Blink” London Fashion Week: streetstyle

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2015
LFW Sept'15 streetstyle. Shot at Patisserie Valerie on Old Compton Street, Soho

LFW Sept’15 streetstyle. Shot at Patisserie Valerie on Old Compton Street, Soho

The change of venue did change quite a bit about how we experienced London Fashion Week. Somerset House provided a wonderful stage for all the fashion crowd to peacock and be snapped for posts just like this one. In Soho it was a bit of a bun-fight on Brewer Street, but a short walk away we spotted these two fashionistas grabbing a little refreshment between shows.

For more from London Fashion Week, just click here.

“Blink” London Fashion Week: Teatum Jones, SS’16 show review

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2015

We adore Teatum Jones. Not only are Rob and Catherine two of the loveliest people in the industry, their thought-provoking collections are always stunning; from the original inspiration, through their specially developed textiles right up to the seasonal shows which always have an awesome soundtrack.

Teatum Jones SS'16 invitation and show notes, LFW, catwalk show, fashion blog, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 invitation and show notes

The SS’16 collection was titled ‘Never Despise Humble Beginnings’ and was inspired by Teatum Jones meeting Leymah Gbowee, a Liberian peace activist. Her story and her achievements became integrally part of, and quite literally woven in to the collection driving out silhouettes, detailing, pattern and finishes. My shots do not do the collection justice but I hope will give you a flavour of the show.

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

Teatum Jones SS'16 LFW show, London Fashion Week, fashion blog, catwalk show, Blink London

Teatum Jones SS’16 LFW show

The message of female empowerment was enhanced by the brilliant soundtrack which you will hear in snatches across my short video, showing some of my favourite looks. It’s the first video on our brand new Blink London YouTube channel by the way. I have some work to do on my camerawoman and editing skills!

We asked Catherine and Rob to share their thoughts on the importance of their show soundtrack and they told us:

“When we create our show music you have a picture in your head of how people will interpret the message and what the energy in the show venue will be like. We didn’t expect such a heady and abrasive subject to translate into such a serene and calm mood, it cut through into quite a beautiful and thoughtful atmosphere backstage.”

For more from London Fashion Week, just look here.