We set out to create a set of simple show reviews from our favourite AW’15 London shows, but as we were going through all of the coverage we got distracted. You see, it’s impossible to select looks from the shows without feeling a certain mood or inspiration coming through, noticing iterations on certain silhouettes, proportions, textiles, colours and patterns.
Please be assured that those show reviews are coming, and there are some exciting steps forward in the handwriting of many of the London labels to see, but before we get there we’d like to share with you what we are now feeling rather fixated upon. It’s pretty easy to pick out a period of reference as a style shorthand when forecasting, but when we looked at these shows it all became far more specific than that. We felt that many of the labels, as diverse as they are, looked to have been inspired by the very particular design aesthetic of the Vienna Secession and the Wiener Werkstatte.
The Wiener Werkstatte was a group of multidisciplinary studios and workshops in Vienna who’s focus was on living in and with art in every aspect of life. They spanned about 30 years from just before 1900, and so this group explored design aesthetics that incorporated both Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Their use of pattern and form was bold, linear and really utterly innovative, from architecture to fashion.
If you’d like to explore this groups work then look at Josef Hoffmann, Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. For a muse, Klimt’s model and life partner, fashion designer and businesswoman, Emilie Floge, who is featured on our moodboard top centre, and bottom right of centre, is the perfect candidate. While this innovation was happening in Vienna, running parallel to this group and creating a quite similar aesthetic were the amazing Glasgow School of Art focussed artists and designers like Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
I hope you can see why we have headed off on this particular tangent when you see the show coverage we’ll be posting! You can also see quite a bit of late 60’s, Prada-esque ‘ugly beauty’ and lots of wonderful craft feeling embroidery and textile manipulation.