I hope you enjoyed my post about meeting Piers Atkinson in Paris. Here’s another missive from our PFW trip, this time featuring Molly Goddard and her SS’16 collection. To help set the scene, here’s a video from the British Fashion Council of Goddard’s rather unusual LFW show…
Yup, that is a fashion version of a sandwich factory. I initially felt a bit kinda confused by this, not understanding the full story behind the collection. Without even delving in to show notes or esoteric motivations, the simple fact is that this was the perfect atmosphere for Goddard to show her style, and this collection in particular. There is a certain vintage, naive, pastoral and crafty feel around the collection, mostly from the hand smocked detailing and the proportions, so why shouldn’t this person be making something as simple and recognisable, comforting and honest as a sandwich?
The collection feels both antiquely, milk-maidish and at the same time, for the same reasons of proportion and detailing but taking in to account colour and materials too, kinda subversive as well. There is sweetness on first sight, but upon second look there is a toughness, a grit, a touch of punky anti-joie de vivre. When looking closely at some of the pieces from this collection I was drawn in by the intense, handworked precision in some of the styles. The beautiful smocking has been hand created using tradition and age-old techniques. This is combined with the textural layers, tiers and ruffles, bell sleeves and pattern mixtures to create a really vibrant, exciting feel.
We asked Molly if she had a favourite from the collection. A bit of a ‘Sophie’s Choice’ situation I’m sure, but she pointed out the plaid dress, which is intensley smocked which gives the pattern a totally different appearance on the bodice and upper arms, and the plaid pattern also feeling rather schoolish and country-girl whilst also being a strong Punk pattern reference. I love, love love both the literal layers as well as the subtler layers of reference Goddard has captured on these wonderful pieces.
Words by Lucy Williams.
Images by Lucy Williams, unless otherwise stated.