London Fashion Week: Vauxhall Fashion Scout

To complete our LFW coverage, we have a post of our favourite spots from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout event. The purpose of this event is to shine a spotlight on new labels who have been selected by a panel of industry experts. The event featured several platforms to present all of this talent, from a static exhibition to an ever changing presentation space as well as catwalk shows. It was a vibrant and exciting collection of new talent and innovation. We particularly liked the work of these designers and graduates, and we think they all have a very strong chance of being the next big things to emerge into the incredibly influential British fashion scene.

First up, we have Malene Oddershede Bach whose texture and print oriented collection was incredibly impactful without being gimmicky. The collection featured strong colourblocking teamed with graphic shapes, all worked back to matching statement shoes, created in collaboration with a designer who creates shoes for Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness.

Malene Oddershede Bach

Malene Oddershede Bach

Anna Smit is an RCA MA graduate whose collection featured her preoccupations with pattern, new materials and silhouette. This incredibly cleverly constructed set of garments felt accomplished and really innovative.

Anna Smit

We were very impressed with Kingston University‘s presentation, and in particular with the work of Han Gu and Stephanie Nieuwenhuyse. Two very different approaches, but both equally striking, relevant and exciting.

Han Gu, Kingston University graduate

Han Gu, Kingston University graduate

Stephanie Nieuwenhuyse, Kingston University graduate

Stephanie Nieuwenhuyse, Kingston University graduate

Designers Duncan Shaw and Belinda Yick have joined forces to launch new label, MASC. Their chic and minimalist approach looked incredibly professional and quietly innovative. We loved the origami feel detailing which worked incredibly well with the clean and refined silhouettes.

MASC

MASC

Patrick Li, a Brighton University BA and Royal College Of Art MA graduate created a subtly stunning collection that contrasts soft and hard in soft stoney shades, blending dense and sheer textiles with an expert hand.

Patrick Li

The Ume-Romann collection was presented as part of the Graduate Showcase. This designer, from De Montfort university, had created a shot of rock star worthy glamour with incredibly decorative looks created with ultra fine chain mail embellishment.

Umeromaan

Umeromaan

Thanks to Hannah for some of these shots and for her hard work at VFS on our behalf. Good luck to all of the designers featured and we look forward to seeing great things in the season’s ahead.

If you’d like to see more on our new designer discoveries, click here. If you’re interested in our London Fashion Week coverage, click here. Enjoy!

London College of Fashion MA Graduates: We Spotlight Oliver Ruuger

The second in our LCF MA graduate interview series is Oliver Ruuger, whose work was a scene stealer in the ‘MA Fashion Artefact’ show. We were fascinated by the incredibly accomplished and confident pieces that felt more as if they were part of the collection from a very high end and well established brand, with not a small dash of the sculptural mixed with a healthy splash of sadism. This collection was awarded the MA Award in Design and Oliver graduated with a distinction.

CONTEXT

Oliver is originally from Hiiumaa island in the Baltic sea. He moved from a rural village to London in 2004 to study BA Fashion at Kingston University, focusing on menswear. He won a design competition in his 2nd year of BA studies and as a result interned in New York during summer ‘09 for a well known American fashion brand, designing shoes, accessories and outerwear. This experience sparked his interest for accessories and he went on to do several other shoe and accessories based work placements during his studies, including for the fabulous Nicholas Kirkwood.

Oliver graduated with an award for studentship and went on to work as an accessories designer for one year, before applying for the ‘MA Fashion Artefact’ course, run by Dai Rees at London College of Fashion, for which he was awarded the Harold Tillman scholarship. Olivers MA collection of umbrellas, briefcases and sculptural saddles is a result of a personal exploration of design process, material and make. The pieces exhibit a high level of technical ability as he has combined incredibly hi tech processes with low tech manual, traditional workmanship to produce an accomplished body of work. Oliver is making his collection to order and is also interested in collaborative work.

Over to Oliver himself…

THE COLLECTION

The final project for my MA studies is a collection of umbrellas, briefcases and saddles. I view the articles as luxury fashion products however I want the pieces to justify their value on their own without the whole luxury ‘bubble’ and hype. The pieces are sculptural, and although they are fully functional (apart from the saddles) they equally work presented as objects of contemplation in still life. The look of the work is derived from initial choices of ‘charged’ materials (bark tanned leather, tonewood, brass, horsehair) and realized through empirical research. The technical parts are resolved in a manner that they can lend themselves to further commercial fashion product development. Every component is designed and fabricated as an one off. I worked with an engineer and a jeweler for the metalwork, and produced the rest myself.

What would your dream job be?

I would love to collaborate with a fashion brand/film director/an avant-garde personality to produce further work.

Who or what has proven to be your longest standing inspiration?

ma mère

If not accessories/ artefacts, what other creative discipline would you have chosen?

any design based discipline appeals to me… possibly product design or architecture

Who would your ideal client be?

some illustrious eccentric

What is the most exciting thing that you learnt on your MA?

Not to worry too much and just remember that I am doing this because i love it.

What three words best sum up your aesthetic?

presence, sleek, industrial

For more inspirational interviews, just click here. Enjoy!