NYFW is pretty much done and the fashion world is about to descend on London for our turn. They will be leaving behind snow drifts for London’s blue skies (fingers crossed the weather holds!). They will also be leaving behind what has been a pretty safe set of looks for AW’15. Of course there have been some wonderful sparks of creativity, and those are what we are focussing on. New York is known for delivering wearable, commercial and easily adoptable collections, but there is an art in this that shouldn’t be overlooked (* although the London shows are obviously far more exciting, innovative, fabulous, brilliant). Here’s our second instalment of what we feel are the highlights of the shows seen so far.
Kicking things off with Marc by Marc Jacobs, currently creatively headed up by Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier so I think this can pretty much be considered a Brit label actually. Continuing to embrace their graphic, high contrast handwriting that delivers fresh takes on well known youthful silhouettes. The glossy and textural black patent feels rather late 60’s, early 70’s. In fact this collection seems to have a touch of the ‘Jane Fonda as activist’ about it, blended with a big dollop of 90’s too.
Next we look at Phillip Lim, which certainly falls into the category of commerciality- but it’s perfectly combined with just enough innovation for this to feel desirable and fresh. I look at this collection and think about how easily I could incorporate these into my wardrobe (in my dreams), but there’s something very admirable about working with that level of accessibility and yet not delivering something ‘meh’.
Leather is still hot, but looking fresh when layered with more textural elements. Actually it’s this mood for layering that features across many of the NYC shows and we really love how this takes the notion of minimalism and a linear silhouette to a more complex level.
There are some highly recognisable silhouettes here too (the MA1 pops up repeatedly across shows). There’s also a new ‘outline’ shining out- the softly rounded shoulder line, seen here in a highly wearable way.
There’s more to come from NYC so keep ’em peeled. If you’d like to read about more inspiration events in the meantime. take a look here.
NB (* I am obviously highly biased)