It seems I may be a season or so in discovering this new London based womenswear label. But better late than never I suppose! After coming across Trager Delaney at London Fashion Week it seemed as if I suddenly kept spotting this label everywhere (a huge window display at Joseph, an article in Vogue, product in Matches). This pair have made quite an impact on the British fashion scene.
Dane, Kim Trager and Brit, Lowell Delaney met while studying fashion at St Martins. After interning at prestigious labels like Celine, Sonia Rykiel and Haider Ackermann they have brought together their respective experience and channeled it into this rather brilliant own label. Aside from the AW’13 collection just looking incredibly fresh, innovative and sophisticated, the pair have utilized some really exciting technical fabrics yet this doesn’t feel like a ‘function’ driven offer at all. If anything it’s ultra elegant in a really modern way. I do wish, however, that there wasn’t fur in the collection, but perhaps this is related to Trager’s Danish heritage. I wonder what the Brit retailers will make of that part of the collection?
Trager of Trager Delaney, with their house model at London Fashion Week
We spent a brief moment talking with Kim Trager at London Fashion Week, while Lowell Delaney was busy showing buyers the collection. It seems the duo have a very clear plan for their brand which involves a slow and steady growth and a very conscious focus on selling through the very best boutiques (Joseph and Matches are not a bad start don’t you agree?).
I really look forward to seeing where this duo go next with their collection. If all of the attention they are currently enjoying is anything to go by, they have a very exciting future ahead of them.
So, we couldn’t round up this Autumn Winter ’12 trend review without looking at what the best dressed boys are wearing. Westfield London have identified ‘Mr Dandy’ as their key menswear look for Autumn Winter ’12 and it was a treat to spot so many well dressed men at the Vogue’s FNO event last night, the first day of Westfield’s ‘Fashion Weekend’ in celebration of the launch of Autumn Winter ’12.
‘Mr Dandy’ is a super smart, well put together look featuring sports jackets or suits, bow ties, pocket squares and a clever balance of smart elements with a casual feel. Thanks again to everyone who stopped for us to shoot them and to the stores who let us shoot, especially Reiss who had a particularly stylish band of shop assistants last night.
After ‘Metallics’ and ‘Gothic’, last night at Westfield London, we spotted a couple of great ‘Print’ looks, working a strongly digital, graphic, photo realistic or linear feel. Many of the new crop of brilliant London based Designers have a very strongly print driven handwriting, so it’s great to see this translating in to streetstyle.
So, after our look at metallics at Westfield London, in celebration of their Fashion Weekend event, we now move on to the next trend that’s looking very strong for Autumn, and that is ‘Gothic’. Featuring lots of leather, black on black, studs, fur, lace and a slightly punk attitude. Thanks again to everyone who stopped for us to shoot them and to all the stores that got involved.
This was a spectacular beginning to a 3 day event at Westfield London as the Autumn Winter ’12 fashion season kicks off there in earnest with a wonderful ‘Fashion Weekend’ of further promotions, discounts, freebies and treats.
Westfield’s fashion team have reviewed the AW’12 collections and come up with a few key trends, all of which were featured on the FNO catwalk. For the ladies they have identified ‘Gothic’, ‘Digital Prints’, ‘Metallics’, ‘Burnt Orange’, ‘Gold and Brocade’ as the key looks to rock for Autumn. For the fellas we have the ‘Mr Dandy’ look. Westfield asked me to search out some of these looks being worn by the wonderfully fashion conscious crowd at Westfield last night. Thanks to all of you who stopped for us. Thanks also to the Westfield team, Propellornet, Yellow Door, Urban Outfitters, Topshop, Reiss and COS.
So, starting with the hottest trend we spotted last night, metallics, featuring lots of lovely sequins, metallic finishes and great sparkly accessories…
We’re delighted to be able to post a stunning video from one of our favourite London based brands, Teatum Jones. Its another that was previously exclusive to Vogue, and we’re delighted to have the opportunity to share it with you now.
We asked Catherine and Rob shared with us their highlights from this years’ London and Paris Fashion Weeks:
This was our first ‘On Schedule’ Presentation during LFW and the brand’s first fashion film too! Like anything that we venture into, this meant that every detail surrounding the event and the creation of the film, had to be meticulously designed, thought out and executed. We really grew the collection for SS’12 and expanded the areas that have shown signs of growth for us in particular in the Middle East and US markets. It created A LOT of hard work from our amazing team to bring the whole collection together, but then nothing that isn’t worth working seven days a week for isn’t going to be hard work! There was a real buzz and excitiement surrounding the Presentation and with all the positive feedback and reviews we’ve had since we’re are filled with so many ideas for AW’13… really cannot wait to get stuck into designing next season’s collection and LFW event!
The SS’12 collection considers the supposed perfection of 1950’s American suberbia, while subtly blending in the edgyness of lost or crushed dreams and the frantic urge to escape. Teatum and Jones translated this story in to a collection of hybrid shapes, subtly confusing silhouettes and delicate transparencies. The collection really is a stunning feat of care, construction and consideration. Prints are meticulously matched across panels and inserts- even in to pocket linings. Complexly combined textiles are amazingly colour matched in a selection of sophisticated frosted pastel shades. The interiors are finished to an almost couture level of beauty too. This is a label that is operating to the supreme level that reflects where they hope their brand will sit in the global market, which is deeply impressive considering that they are a really quite new label who are still working hard to break into the general fashion consciousness.
We are convinced that this is the break through season for Teatum Jones as they have secured orders from our favourite London fashion store, Liberty, as well as from other prestigious stores in Vancouver and New York as well as across Saudi Arabia and the UAE.
If you’d like to read more about Teatum Jones, click here to see our other posts. If you’d like to read more about London Fashion Week, click here. Enjoy!
At LFW we were fortunate enough to be invited to see this amazing movie which has been created by director, Johnny Green, to showcase the wonderful SS’12 collection for Damaris. Featuring the absolutely stunning Liberty Ross, this movie has some truly explosive moments. Not only is the lingerie utterly enticing, this video is a visual treat. Up until now, this video was exclusive to Vogue, so we are delighted to be the next in line to share it with you.
Damaris have created a really stunning new season collection that features updated variations of their signature peek-a-boo knickers, as well as introducing some amazingly sculptural shapes. The innovative eye popping brights are tempered by sophisticated, classic black options. Combinations of lace, satin, dense and sheer with linear and layering detailing all adds up to a really exciting take on how modern lingerie should look.
Damaris, still from 'Packing Heat', featuring the SS'12 collection
Damaris, still from 'Packing Heat', featuring the SS'12 collection
Thanks to Sarah-Jane Nolan, for sending us the video and for posing for this picture, wearing the wonderful lace ‘ears’ created for the Damaris team to wear at London Fashion Week by milliner, Jess Collett.
Sarah-Jane Nolan, Damaris
If you’d like to see more about London fashion Week, just click here. Enjoy!
In the video Knight speaks incredibly inspirationally and eloquently about fashion as an art form and the creative force that is Lady Gaga, as well as the current evolution/ revolution occurring within the way the fashion industry is communication and operating. Knight also talks about his respect for and working relationship with the Fashion Director at SHOWstudio, Alex Fury. Knight and Fury have been instrumental in changing the way that fashion is being communicated, particularly through the instantaneous reportage that they produce from the shows, featured on the SHOWstudio site.
Diane Pernet‘s impressive career spans fashion design, journalism and film-making, but she is foremost a cult fashion ‘curator’. When not in the front row at fashion week she can be found consulting and bestowing her revered judgement at various creative institutions globally. Her work on the web propelled her to the forefront of online fashion, as the driving force behind A Shaded View of Fashion. This blog, widely referred to as a ‘style bible’, is hailed as a platform giving young designers the opportunity to get the exposure they need, and its also the way that we first discovered Pernet and her unique take on the world of fashion.
Pernet was herself a fashion designer in the 80’s and edited numerous publications including Joyce, elle.com, vogueparis.com and Zoo over the years. As one of the first to champion fashion film, her own early lo-fi fashion film ventures were a landmark in the burgeoning medium of fashion film. In 2008 she founded the first ever fashion film festival, A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival which recognizes the medium as an art form in its own right and is helping earn it the credibility it deserves. In the video she speaks passionately about her love of fashion film and her film festival. Pernet also praises the work of Stefan Siegel, who launched the brilliant designer platform, ‘Not Just a Label’ hwo has created the perfect on-line environment for new designers to gain global exposure.
When we were approached to see if we’d like to post about BlackBerry and Vice Style’s Visionaries project, we were intrigued. As you all know (and hopefully love!) we only post about things that we have seen, created, collated and discovered ourselves, so it is a little departure to use our blog as a platform to profile someone else’s project. We made this exception as its this project reflects many of the things that we believe in at “Blink”, and we also think Gareth Pugh, the first subject of this project, is an absolute genius.
The Visionaries project is intended to look at both established and up-and-coming individuals who make fashion happen. Each film stars a seminal fashion visionary and a rising star of their choosing. The visionaries are the art directors, designers, stylists, photographers and editors who broke ground with their work and helped define the look of a generation. Their chosen luminaries have the potential to alter the landscape of fashion in years to come, embodying the fashion world’s predilection for innovation and subversion of the accepted blueprint.
Last decade, award-winning Fashion designer Gareth Pugh exploded onto the scene and single-handedly recaptured and reinvented the spirit of British fashion. Today his influence can be seen worldwide and his impact on the look of this generation can be described as era-defining. He got his first break designing Kylie Minogue‘s comeback costume and kitting out her entire Showgirl tour. Beyonce is his most vocal fan and has seemingly worn Pugh in more music videos than in ones she hasn’t. Lady Gaga has not only worn many of his creations on and off tour, but is a collaborator. Pugh’s muse is none other than the inimitable Daphne Guinness. He has collaborated extensively with all the major publications including Vogue, Another, i-D, Dazed & Confused, Wonderland and Arena Homme+, and shot with the likes of Mario Testino, Nick Knight, Alasdair Mclellan and Karl Lagerfeld. Pugh discusses his ongoing collaborations with fashion filmmaker Ruth Hogben, a visionary who he hails as “one person who could change the face of fashion” and the reasons he believes film is so instrumental in the fashion industry. Pugh and Hogben speak of their inspiration, skill, passion, luck and the unique personal visions behind their art and collaborations.